Our Masonry Services
Our crew handles every part of your masonry project. We do not send outside workers to your property.
The same team that meets with you does all the digging, building, and finishing.
Stone and Block Retaining Walls
We build retaining walls using concrete block, natural stone, or a combination of both. First, we excavate the base of the slope and pour a wide concrete footing below the frost depth. This footing anchors the bottom course of the wall so it cannot slide forward. We then stack each course of block or stone in a slightly inward angle. This batter angle presses the weight of the wall back into the hillside for added stability. We place a steel masonry reinforcing bar vertically through the hollow cores of each block and fill the cores with grout. This turns the wall into one solid structure instead of a stack of loose blocks. Behind the wall, we install a bed of pea gravel drain rock to collect groundwater. We also set corrugated perforated HDPE drain pipe at the base to carry that water safely away. This drainage system meets the requirements of California Building Code Section 1807.2 for structural masonry retaining wall drainage design.
Sitting Walls and Garden Walls
Both types start with the same foundation. We dig a trench and pour a concrete footing across the full length of the wall. This keeps the wall from sinking into soft ground over time. We then lay the first course of stone or block directly on the footing. We check every course for level and plumb as we build up. Each course is set in a bed of mortar so the joints are tight and waterproof. For a more natural look, we can use a dry-stack method where we fit the stones closely without mortar. We use a 4-foot mason’s torpedo level to check alignment on every course. We finish the top with a wide, smooth thermal-finish granite capstone that is comfortable to sit on and resistant to heat from the El Dorado Hills summer sun. The capstone width and height of the finished wall comply with El Dorado County residential fence and wall ordinance standards for yard structures under 3 feet.
Natural Stone Steps and Stairways
We build stone steps that are safe and solid. We begin by setting a wide concrete footing at the base of the stairway run. Each step is built from the bottom up, and we embed the back of each tread into the slope as we go. This prevents the steps from kicking forward or tilting. We use natural flagstone, cut bluestone, or concrete block as the tread material depending on your design preference. We score the top surface of each tread with a 4-inch angle grinder and diamond blade to create fine parallel grooves. These grooves add grip to the stone surface and stop shoes from slipping when the steps are wet. We measure rise and run dimensions on every step using a digital pitch gauge to keep each step consistent. All tread dimensions comply with California Building Code Section 1011.5 for maximum riser height and minimum tread depth on exterior stairways.
Stone Veneer and Accent Walls
We install stone veneer using a three-layer bonding method. First, we apply a layer of metal lath fastened to the surface with corrosion-resistant screws. This metal mesh gives the mortar something to grip. Next, we spread a polymer-modified scratch coat mortar across the lath with a notched trowel and let it cure for 24 hours. This scratch coat creates a rough, textured surface that locks the veneer in place. We then set each stone piece individually using a back-butter bonding mortar applied directly to the stone back and the wall face at the same time. We press each piece firmly and check for tight joints throughout. This installation method follows the requirements of California Building Code Section 2510.3 for exterior metal plaster and lath veneer assemblies. The finished surface is then sealed with a penetrating masonry water repellent to stop moisture from working behind the veneer in heavy rain.
Raised Planters and Stone Borders
A raised planter is a masonry box built above ground level to hold soil and plants. Raised planters make gardening easier because you can reach the plants without bending down to the ground. They also keep soil in place on sloped lots and separate your planting areas from the rest of the yard.
We build raised planters using concrete block, natural stone, or a combination of both. We form the walls in a rectangle or L-shape and mortar each course tightly. The inside of every planter gets a layer of non-woven geotextile filter fabric against the inner wall face. This fabric stops fine soil from washing through the mortar joints over time. We also drill 3-inch weep holes through the bottom course of the planter wall at 24-inch intervals. These holes let excess irrigation water drain out of the planter bed so roots never sit in standing water. We check the bottom course for level using a 48-inch contractor level so the finished planter sits flat on the ground. The finished height, wall drainage design, and on-site water retention meet the requirements of El Dorado County Grading Ordinance Chapter 15.12 Section 15.12.030 for on-site drainage control and retention structure design.
Stone Pillars and Entry Columns
Stone pillars make a strong first impression at the front of your property. They frame a driveway entry, support a gate, or anchor the start of a garden path. A well-built pillar adds structure and a sense of permanence to your yard.
We build pillars from the ground up with a concrete spread footing at the base. The footing is poured wider than the pillar face so it distributes the weight of the stone into the soil over a large area. We build the core of the pillar using concrete masonry units stacked and filled with grout and a central rebar post. This gives the pillar its structural strength. We then face the exterior with natural stone or brick veneer in the pattern and color you choose. We use a 6-foot builders plumb bob to keep the pillar perfectly vertical during construction. We top each pillar with a solid granite or limestone capstone cut to overhang the pillar face by two inches on all sides. This overhang sheds rainwater away from the pillar joints so the mortar stays protected. The pillar cross-section, minimum reinforcement ratio, and footing dimensions comply with California Building Code Section 2104.1 for masonry construction quality requirements and ACI 530-19 Section 7.3 for masonry column minimum dimension and vertical reinforcement ratio.
Why El Dorado Hills Homeowners Choose Progressive Landscapes for Masonry
- We Start with the Right Footing: Every wall, planter, and pillar we build starts with a concrete footing below the clay layer. This is the most important step, and most homeowners never see it. We never skip it.
- We Build Drainage Into Every Wall: Water trapped behind a masonry wall will push it over time. We install gravel backfill and drain pipe behind every retaining wall to release that pressure safely.
- We Use Our Own Crew: We do not pass your project off to sub-contractors. The team that plans your job is the team that builds it. This keeps the quality consistent from start to finish.
- We Walk You Through the Options: Block or stone. Mortar or dry-stack. We explain the difference in plain language so you can make the right choice for your budget and your yard.
- We Are Fully Licensed and Insured: We carry a current CSLB license (No. 970596) and full general liability coverage. This protects your home and your investment from start to finish.
How We Build Your Masonry Project
We do not cut corners on any of these stages.
Site Assessment
Excavation and Footing Pour
Drainage Preparation
Block or Stone Course Laying
Capstone and Finish Work
Final Walk and Cleanup
Contact Progressive Landscapes for
Your Masonry Project
Progressive Landscapes 334 Green Valley Road #D El Dorado Hills, CA 95762 (916) 439-8096 CSLB License No. 970596
